Before Investing in a CNC Router

YOU NEED TO KNOW THE ADVANTAGES OF:

• Servo Motors over Steppers
• Ball Screws over Acme Screws and/or Rack-and-Pinions
• Rigid Machine Frames over Table Top Routers
• A Windows-Based CNC GCODE Interface
  

Servo Motors over Steppers

All Techno machines, except for the Stepper DaVinci, feature servo motors, not stepper motors. With servo motors, you can achieve greater power and speed. Our competitors play a numbers game of specifications we do not. We actually can achieve specifications better than what we claim. When we claim speeds of 200 inches/minute, we can usually go 250 ipm. When we claim a repeatability of .0005 inches, we can and do achieve repeatability better than that, and so on. The speeds claimed by some of our competitors on their machines can only be achieved if they throw the machine off a cliff. Stepper motors are always prone to vibration and can result in a loss of steps. Even micro-stepping is not a guarantee of eliminating this. When a motor is run open loop, the resulting vibrations from a heavy cut can cause all sorts of problems and without the encoders to tell where the motor actually is, you can always have problems

Ball Screws over Acme Screws and/or Rack-and-Pinions

Techno only use ball screws and anti-backlash ball nuts on ALL OUR MACHINES. Acme screws are very inefficient and combined with stepper motors can compound the problems. Rack and Pinions can be an endless source of problems. When chips or dirt falls on the rack, the pinion gear has to go “over it” resulting in loss of positioning accuracy and vibration. The racks constantly need adjusting to tighten them and after tightening them in one spot, you are more than likely to be too loose or too tight on another area of the rack. This of course causes the system to be either too loose or to bind. This does not happen with a ball screw because the balls roll over a formed thread. Since they roll, we can tighten up the fit between the screw and ball nut without causing the system to bind. Racks and acme screws wear because of the nature of their action they have to rub and they have to have a certain amount of looseness to achieve their motion. In both the rack and Acme screw, the sliding action causes the wear, which requires the adjustments. The rolling action of the ball screw means that the motion of the system is first of all more efficient so that the motor power is used to move the system, not just used to overcome the sliding friction of the mechanism, but second it does not wear as much or as fast. Putting it simply, rubbing wears material out, rolling does not. This means that our customers spend their time running the machine, not adjusting it.

Rigid Machine Frames over Table Top Routers

Techno machines, especially our larger CNC machines, are built on rigid steel frames, not bolted assemblies or sheet metal covered aluminum assemblies. This results in stiffer frames which means that when you take heavy cuts, our machine will not rack or twist. Our CNC lathes are designed with covered mechanisms to prevent chips from getting where they should not. Our CNC wood lathe has the entire moving mechanisms covered in sealed slides and the seals are on the bottom of the mechanism so that the wood chips have an even more difficult time of getting in the machine

Windows-Based CNC GCODE Interface

Techno's WINDOWS-BASED CNC GCODE Interface is extremely user-friendly with most major functions just one-click away. Even users that are unfamiliar with computers can get up and running in no time. Techno provides easy to follow Interface Tutorials that walk you through the processes. It's simple to install on any Windows-Based PC (WIN 95 / 98 / 2000/ME/XP) so you don't have to worry about compatibility. The Interface's Main Menu (shown at right) highlights Techno's single-screen design. Some of the features that one-click will take you to, include:ท Toolpath Previewerท Built-in GCODE Editorท Production Logging and Reportingท Toolbreak Auto-Repositioningท Infinite Look-Ahead and Continuous Motion (optimizing feedrates while maintaining accurate positioning)AND, all of Techno's complete system machines (LC, RG, Prem Class, etc.) get this software bundled with the machine, FOR FREE. AND, you get FREE lifetime updates on this software, via the Internet.


Servo-Stepper Motor Table

Custom Woodworking with a Thermwood CNC Router

Custom woodworking consists of building products, either one at a time or in limited quantity. Traditionally this work has been done by hand and only recently has technology developed which makes a CNC router a practical and powerful tool for custom woodworkers. Thermwood is at the forefront in developing this new technology and is the only source for much of it.


Traditionally CNC routers have been used to produce a large quantity of identical parts. Thus, the often complex and expensive programming task could be spread over a large quantity of parts. The key to using a CNC router for custom woodworking is to simplify or eliminate programming so that it becomes practical to create a program for a single part.

The first development to address this was the development of cabinet design and kitchen layout software using the concept of parametric parts. Design software, such as CAD, is used to design individual parts. This is still not practical for designing and programming cabinets. A single cabinet can consist of dozens of parts, each of which must be individually designed including their interface with all the other parts. The programming task is just too great for any benefit that might be realized.

The new type of cabinet design software changes this by taking a different approach. Instead of designing each part, this software lets you design the cabinet itself. When the cabinet and all the joints and the size have been defined, the software then designs all the individual parts so they will fit together and make the cabinet you want. It is much easier to define the cabinet than it is to define each part of the cabinet.

This is where parametrics comes in. Parametric dimensions are dimensions that change in proportion when another dimension changes. If all you want to do is change the size of the cabinet, there is no reason to redefine all the parameters. You simply tell the software that you want the same cabinet in a new size and it changes all the part sizes as needed. Now it becomes practical to make custom size cabinets, since virtually all the programming work is done by the software. The practice of designing custom cabinets this way and then cutting them out on a CNC router has become known as Nested Based Manufacturing. Another area of this web site covers this in more detail.

Most CNC controls only accept programs carefully developed for them. The basic part design must be processed through CAM software which develops the path that the tool must take to produce the part. Then, the tool path must be processed through another piece of software called a Post Processor which develops the CNC code needed to make the machine travel the required path. This adds complexity to the process making it less suitable for short run and custom jobs.

Thermwood eliminates this complexity by including the CAM and Post Processor functions in the control itself, and they are automatic. All you need to do it copy the part design to the control and it does everything needed to run it, automatically.

We use the DXF format, which virtually every major software package exports, to transfer design detail to the control.

There is one area to watch for when looking at software. Some cabinet design software companies that offer separate, high cost CNC links, have removed the DXF output from their base package and placed it in their CNC link to force you to purchase this even though you will not be using their CAM and Post Processor software. Most design software, however, retains the DXF file export functions and work directly with Thermwood’s control.

In an effort to help custom shops find work for their machines, Thermwood, through the eCabinet Systems web site, maintains an area where Thermwood machine owners can post their name and contact information. Those looking for shops to custom make parts can then call and make arrangements directly. There is no cost for this service.

Another new area that can prove to be a huge benefit to custom shops concerns custom profiles for moldings or part edges. Traditionally, to machine a custom molding or a custom shape on a part, a custom shaped tool was needed. These custom tools have the same disadvantage as custom programming when only a few parts are required. The disadvantage is that the entire cost must be charged against one or two parts. Using eCabinet Systems software and the Thermwood control, an alternative approach is now available.

When a part with a custom shape is sent to the control, the control asks if you have a tool with the correct profile. If you say no, the control automatically creates a modeling program that uses standard tools to produce the shape. It does this by going back and forth with the tool, stepping over a little each time until the desired profile is developed.

This does take longer (about 15 minutes for an 8’ molding) but it is a highly efficient alternative to buying a new tool every time you need to make a new shape. Shapes can be put on straight or curved pieces including curved moldings and curved edges of parts. This capability gives the custom shop the ability to quickly produce virtually any shape without special tooling, opening new opportunities not available with other CNC routers.

Another approach available from Thermwood but not available from others is the ability to rent CNC programs for elaborate carvings which are used to produce custom designs. There is a small rental fee for each part produced using this program.

Thermwood offers a growing library of programs for carvings and carved parts. When you want to run the program, you purchase, through the control, a license. Cost per part is typically a few dollars.

You are normally charged for the license after program execution is a little over half over. If the program is stopped before this point because of defects uncovered in the material for example, it can be restarted without paying the license fee again. Once this point is passed, you need to pay the license fee again to restart the program. Note that you can stop the program at any time to replace a cutting tool, back up to the point where it broke and resume without purchasing another license fee.

This program offers the ability to add elaborate details without the time and expense normally required to develop custom programs. You can even scale the carving size up or down in each axis to better adapt it to your custom requirements. Thermwood will continue to add new programs and invites artists and wood carvers to submit designs of their own for the program. Should a design be submitted and accepted, Thermwood will split any design fees collected for use of that design with the person that submitted it.

wood working router table

routing table fixes your plunge or fixed base router underneath a table. Instead of moving the router over the workpiece, you move the wood "over" the router. The wood is guided along the table by a guide fence. At the opening of the guide fence the wood is cut and the dust and chips are extracted by a opening at the back of the guide fence. The router can still be moved vertically within the table in order to adapt depth of cut.

Important parts
Key parts are the table top quality, fence, positioning of router within the table, stability of the table and safety switch.

Router table quality: A good table should be flat and resistant to friction. Most manufacturer use extruded aluminum or cast aluminum. Others use MDF surfaced with melamine
Router table fence

Movable from back to front, the router table fence guides you along the cut. The guide fence supporting system should be connected to your vac to keep the working area dust free. On top of the guide fence support are usually two boards mounted. The gap between the two boards leaves enough room for the router bit to move freely, but should be as close as possible to prevent splintering. Some suppliers offer special insert pieces to keep the gap between the two fence boards closed. On shop made tables you can simply add a large splinter board along the entire fence and cut it out with your cutter.

Adjustment and positioning of the router:

Whatever router you use (fixed base or plunge) your router must be fit solid underneath the table. Most manufacturer offer special adaptors for most routers available. If you go for a shop made table, make sure the base of your router is attached securely. In addition it is very important that your router can be accessed easily from underneath or top of the table to quickly change your router bit.

Fine adjustment: Height adjustment of you router is also a key factor to usability. Owning an old Elu (now De Walt) plunge router, I got myself a nice depth fine adjustment which works very well underneath my table. So if your router does not already have one, check with your router manufacturer.

Stability: It sounds logical to look for a stable table design. However most cheap designs are not very solid and might need additional fixation. If you think about making your own table, you should consider including a "cabinet type" stand.

Router table switch: Building your own router table make sure you think about an extra switch. A good router table switch fulfills 2 major needs:

wood working router bit

If you're in the market for a new router, check out how many wood working router bits come with it. A lot of the time the cheaper models will include a wide range of wood working router bits, but it may not be such a great deal if the router isn't going to last long.

A good quality router is essential for anyone working with wood, but there are a mind-boggling number of wood working router bits available in the market. No matter what you're designing or building, there's a router bit for the job.

For instance, just for cabinet making there are about eight different styles of bits and another eight for glue joints. And if you are profiling wood you can choose from two dozen different wood working router bits. From double round, ogee fillet, plunge ogee and specialty molding bits to wavy edge and classic cove bits to name just a few.

Fixed or Plunge Router Bits

There are two types of routers, the fixed, is used on most surfacing and joints, and the plunge, which is more applicable to making internal cuts. More control is required as the bit can be plunged into the wood to start a design and this type of control isn't available on a fixed router.

There are wood working router bits for plunge routers as well, such as the plunge roundover, plunge handgrip and the plunge ogee, to name just a few. It's important to remember that not all fixed router bits can be used as a plunge wood working router bit as it won't have the tail piece to be able to start the cut.

The ease of use of wood working router bit sets can help with your projects if you obtain the proper set. There are pre-assembled sets for raised panel work, cabinet making, form bit sets and basic bit sets. For most beginners a basic set is the best bet.

Carbide-tipped wood working router bits are special long-lasting bits which will stay sharp longer. Cheaper wood working router bits are available but like with any wood working tools and accessories, you get what you pay for. Sharpening a bit takes special care and expertise and to trying to renew the cutting edge on a cheap bit may not be worth the effort. So the need to replace the bit in most cases does justify buying the better quality bit upfront.

Important Features: wood working review router

Reviews can compare woodworking routers based on important factors, but it's still important to see how a router feels in your own hands. If at all possible, test drive a router before buying it, or make sure the retailer offers a full refund on returns.

Being able to test or return a router is important because quality control seems to be a problem in general. Router expert Pat Spielman says that "…any two routers of the same brand and model may perform quite differently," and user-reviews certainly confirm this. Be sure to check all aspects of your router as soon as you buy it, using a top-quality bit. Don't wait until the last minute to buy a router you need for a project. Give yourself time to check it out and if necessary, keep exchanging routers till you get one that works as it should.

Expert reviews recommend considering the following features when selecting a wood router:

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  Consider the accessories you'll need. Some routers make it very easy to buy or make a wide range of accessories (collets, bases, etc.) for different tasks, while owners complain about great difficulty finding any accessories for others.
  Be sure you can reach controls without letting go of the handles. A trigger switch in a D-handle is ideal, with a safety switch to prevent accidental turn-ons, plus a lock-on switch to prevent trigger-finger fatigue. For a router you'll also use table-mounted, a second switch mounted on the motor itself is ideal.
  


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  Look for power that matches your usage. High-speed, low-torque routers make the smoothest cuts that need the least sanding, but they're not designed for heavy-duty or continuous use. Mid-sized 1.5- to 2.5-hp routers may be able to make deep cuts in hardwoods, but only by straining the motor and shortening the router's life. Larger routers of 3-hp and up are better suited for heavy jobs and production work. For most jobs, though, mid-sized routers have plenty of power, and for small jobs, a lightweight trimmer is apt to be easiest to use.
  


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  The cord should be flexible and kept out of your way. A cord that comes out the back of a D-handle is most convenient; second best is a cord that comes straight out the top of the motor. Check to be sure the rubber insulation doesn't leave dark marks on wood.
  Choose handles that give you good control. Most experts like D-handles mounted low, especially with optional auxiliary knobs, but the main thing is to find the handle style that feels most comfortable. It's also nice to be able to use a small or mid-sized router with one hand, but there will be times when you need to control the router with both hands. For use with some accessories, it's nice to have removable handles.
  


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  For use in a router table, is it convenient to reach the switch, change bits and adjust the height? Some routers place controls more conveniently than others -- for example, allowing you to adjust height without reaching under the table. However, an auxiliary switch can be mounted on the router table to solve this problem.
  


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  A flat top on the housing makes it easier to set the router upside down for bit changes. Self-releasing collets (which grip the bit) and spindle locks also make it easier, so only one wrench is needed for bit changes (though some woodworkers prefer the two-wrench system).
  


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  adjust the depth easily when the router is mounted in a table -- a long depth-control knob makes this easy.
  


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  Soft-start EVS motors are safer and easier to use. These eliminate the wrist-wrenching jar when the router is first started, which experts say can twist a handheld router right out of your hands. Routers with soft-start motors use EVS (electronic variable speed) technology, with electronic feedback to keep the cutting speed constant even when the load varies.
  


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  Variable speed allows you to run the router at a lower speed when using especially large bits. The speed dial has numbers to indicate the relative speed. It's ideal to be able to read the corresponding rpm from a chart right on the router; second best is a chart in the router's manual.
  


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  Be sure the base is machined precisely, lets you see the work well and has good mounting areas. LED lights are a plus. More important is a base that's truly flat, with the circular edge at the same distance from the bit at all points, so the bit is precisely centered. So many accessories mount to the router's base that it's important to have plenty of sturdy threaded holes.
  


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  Two separate collets are better than one with an adapter. Most mid-sized and larger routers come with both a half-inch collet and a quarter-inch one, but a few just include an adapter for the quarter-inch bits. Expert reviews say this solution isn't as precise or secure. Some small routers only take quarter-inch collets.
  


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  Guide bushings are essential accessories. These are metal sleeves that lock into the base of a router for cutting with a pattern or using various jigs. It's an advantage to choose a router that accepts industry-standard Porter-Cable bushings or at least offers an adapter that makes this possible. However, the Bosch system makes changing guides faster.
  


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  Look for a large hole in the base to accommodate medium to large bits. Expert reviews prefer a 4-inch hole (except on trim routers), with 3 inches as the minimum. If this is the only problem with a router you like otherwise, several reviews recommend making your own base out of clear Lexan, with whatever size hole you need. For some projects, especially on the edge of a workpiece, a base with a large hole may not leave enough support.
  


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  Look for high quality self-releasing collets made of tempered steel. Longer collets with more slits will grip the bit better and keep it centered even if its shank isn't precisely machined. (If the router vibrates excessively, this is often a sign of a worn or poor-quality collet or bit.)
  


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  Two-stage depth adjustment makes fine adjustments easier. This means that a fast coarse adjustment is supplemented by a micro-adjustment. Look for an easy-to-read scale. The best routers have scales you can "zero out," setting the scale to zero when the bit's point touches the surface of the workpiece. Be sure you can also

Trim routers - wood working review router

Trim routers (palm routers, laminate trimmers)

For light routing tasks using bits with quarter-inch shanks, and where light weight and maneuverability in tight spaces take priority, the 4-amp single-speed Porter-Cable 310 (*est. $160) had been the favorite for years. However, the newer 5.7-amp Bosch Colt PR20 Palm Router series has now swept the field. The trim routers in this series are the first to offer self-releasing collets and two-stage depth adjustment (fast coarse adjustment, plus fine adjustment). Reviews say they're comfortable for both right- and left-handed users, whereas the Porter-Cable 310 is not as good for lefties. The Porter-Cable also has a smaller hole in the sub-base, making it harder to see the work.

Top-ranked in more reviews than any other trim router, the Bosch Colt PR20EVSK (*est. $120) has variable speed with electronic speed control. In the Taunton 2006 Tool Guide, the Bosch Colt Palm Router is not only the top choice in the readers' survey, but both the Editor's Choice and the Top Value winner as well. Editors praise its comfort for both right- and left-handed users, low noise even at high speed and ease of adjustment and bit changing. At 3.3 pounds it even weighs slightly less than the Porter-Cable 310 (weighing in at 3.75 pounds).


The single-speed Bosch Colt PR10E (*est. $100) has all the same features except the variable speed and electronic speed control. Reviews note that a single high speed is usually all that's needed for a trim router. However, the difference in price is relatively small.

A larger kit is also available for the variable-speed Bosch Colt PR20EVSK. That kit, the Bosch PR20EVSNK (*est. $190) , includes an offset base and several other attachments. Reviews say most woodworkers will find the fixed base sufficient, but if you need the specialized bases this kit also gets high marks for performance.

Router combo kits-wood working review router

For mid-size routers with 1.75- to 2.25-hp motors, reviews often recommend router combo kits as the best buy. The motor can mount on either the fixed or the plunge base, usually with quick release levers for easy changes. Some woodworkers keep the fixed base mounted in a router table, using the plunger base for freehand work. Since you're only buying one motor, this option costs less than buying two separate routers, but there are some drawbacks. It takes extra time to switch bases, the bit size is usually limited to about 2 inches and the motors are usually 2.25-hp or less -- too small for heavy-duty jobs or continuous use.

Four 2.25-hp router combo kits, all with soft-start variable-speed motors, get the best reviews: The Bosch 1617EVSPK (*est. $220) plus the more expensive DeWalt DW618PK (*est. $240) , the Porter-Cable 895PK (*est. $270) and the new Milwaukee 5616-24 (*est. $250) . The most recent review we found of router combo kits is in the June 2007 issue of Popular Woodworking, where the 13-amp Milwaukee 5616-24 router kit gets top ranking. Woodworker Troy Sexton praises it as the smoothest running, with the least vibration. Controls are easy to reach whether the router is used handheld or table-mounted, and it's easy to change bits.

The Milwaukee 5616-24 router kit is not included in comparative reviews at Fine Woodworking or Taunton's Tool Guide issues, but a brief single product report at FineWoodworking.com praises it for low vibration and smooth plunge action. A review at Tools of the Trade Online also praises the plunge action, but notes that the depth adjustment can slip a little due to an undersized thumb screw. It can be tightened with pliers, but that could eventually strip the threads. The cord placement also requires extra care to avoid an accident.

In Taunton's 2007 Tool Guide, Bosch and Porter-Cable router kits share the Editors' Choice award. A few models are also included in the more recent Fine Woodworking review of wood routers for table-mounted use. The Bosch 1617EVSPK kit (*est. $220) includes the router ranked second by readers of Fine Woodworking and Fine Homebuilding. (Readers' top choice is the Triton MOF001KC plunge router, but Triton doesn't make a router combo kit.)

Taunton Press editors recommend the Bosch 1617EVSPK router kit if you plan to use the router as a handheld, especially for plunge routing -- though the fixed base has excellent depth adjustment too. The Bosch 1617 router has less vibration and better plunge performance than the Porter-Cable woodworking router, as well as more comfortable handles. The Bosch's fixed base offers easier bit changing and depth adjustment too.

For table-mounted use, the Taunton Press review recommends the Porter-Cable 895PK wood router combo kit (*est. $270) , since a long T-wrench makes it easy to adjust the depth from above the table. It also has two switches: one easier to reach when the router is table-mounted, the other easy to reach when using it freehand. It's also easier to change bases on the Porter-Cable wood router than on any of the other five routers tested, and the depth stop system is better. Tests at Fine Woodworking also rate it the quietest router combo kit, though at 87 decibels you still need ear protection. Reviews at About.com give top rating to the similar Porter-Cable 893PK router kit (*est. $260) , which adds a spindle lock for one-wrench bit changes.

Workbench Magazine's review of router combo kits praises the smooth plunge action and tool-less base changing on the Bosch 1617EVSPK wood router, but notes that the plastic chip shield fills quickly, obscuring the view. Owners complain about this at Amazon.com, too, along with some repair problems, though the Bosch router kit gets slightly higher ratings there than the Porter-Cable 895PK. Owners complain even more about a variety of quality-control problems at Porter-Cable, and both it and Bosch get low marks for customer service and repair time. Both brands carry only a one-year warranty.

The DeWalt DW618PK (*est. $240) carries a three-year warranty and gets top ranking at Popular Woodworking based on editors' two-year "endurance tests" for durability. Router expert Pat Warmer also recommends it, and owners reviewing router combo kits at Amazon.com give the DeWalt DW618PK higher average ratings than either the Bosch or Porter-Cable router kits. Changing bases is easy, and Wood Magazine's review of router combo kits praises the bit adjustment and self-releasing collets. An optional D-handle base (*est. $80) is designed for one-handed routing. The kit comes with two clear Lexan bases, one that accepts Porter-Cable bushings and another with a larger opening for bigger bits. Since the DeWalt has a better track record for durability (based on the available reviews), we've included it in ConsumerSearch Fast Answers for a mid-sized router combo kit.

The 12-amp Ridgid R2930 (*est. $200) is tested in the Fine Woodworking review of wood routers for router tables, where tests show the bit has only slightly more runout than the top-ranked Triton MOF001KC plunge router (*est. $200) . The drawback is that bit changing is quite inconvenient when it's mounted in a router table. A single-product review in the Woodworker's Journal eZine praises the Ridgid wood router as "smooth, powerful and feature-rich," with minimal vibration and a quiet soft-start motor. Like all Ridgid power tools, it carries a lifetime warranty once registered.

In addition to dust control ports on both bases, the Ridgid R2930 router kit features LED lights to illuminate handheld routing, plus a lighted plug so you can tell when it's plugged in. Another single-product review in Workbench Magazine praises the Ridgid R2930 router kit for these extra features plus excellent cutting-depth adjustment, smooth plunge action and comfortable handles and controls. It gets a lower rating in a Wood Magazine review; dust collection is deemed excellent but plunge action is stiff, and changing the base is awkward.

As a budget choice, the 2.25-hp Skil 1825 (*est. $100) is recommended in more reviews than any other in its price range. This router kit has variable speed and a work-activated LED light, and you can zero in the depth adjustment. However, at this price you do lose a lot of features. The maximum depth is only 1.5 inches, an inch less than many others (such as the DeWalt router kit above). The Skil 1825 doesn't have a soft-start EVS motor or self-releasing collets, and adjusting the depth can be tedious. Instead of a separate quarter-inch collet, it just has an adapter. Reviews say that adapters like this often don't grip as well or last as long. Tests at Popular Woodworking show more collet runout than the ideal, so the bits wobble a little. Dust control requires buying accessories (*est. $45) which would bring the price close to that of a better router.

Ratings in the Taunton 2006 Tool Guide review show the Skil 1825 performs better with its fixed base -- it's only "fair" for plunge performance, changing bit depth in the plunge base and changing bases. On all other factors, though, the ratings are higher, and switch location and handle comfort are excellent. It comes with a two-year warranty, and though the average rating at Amazon.com isn't impressive, most of that is due to criticisms of customer support; owners agree that the Skil 1825 is a good deal for the money. Professional reviews recommend it if you only need a wood router for occasional use.

Fixed-base routers

Expert reviews differ as to whether plunge routers or fixed-base routers are more convenient to use in a router table. As noted above, the most recent Fine Woodworking review recommends the 2.25-hp (12-amp) Triton plunge router (*est. $200) as the most convenient router for table-mounted use. For heavy-duty routing, reviews recommend the Bosch 1619EVS plunge router (*est. $310) .

Among big, fixed-base routers for continuous use or work in hardwoods, reviews recommend the 3.5-hp Milwaukee 5625-20 (*est. $275) , though it lacks dust control and vibrates more than the Bosch and Triton wood routers. The Milwaukee's maximum depth is smaller, too -- 1.75 inches compared with 2.56 inches for the Bosch 1619EVS and 2.31 inches for the Triton MOF001KC. Milwaukee routers carry a longer five-year warranty, though, and reviews say the Milwaukee 5625-20 makes table-mounted depth adjustments easier (though you have to support the router with one hand underneath the table). In the 2008 Taunton Tool Guide, the readers' survey ranks the Milwaukee 5625-20 router third, after a Triton and Bosch fixed-base router.

Like the Bosch and Triton routers, the Milwaukee 5625-20 router has a soft-start EVS motor and two-stage depth adjustment that can zero out for accuracy. It comes with two bases, one clear and another ready for Porter-Cable guide bushings. It comes with both D-handles and ball-shaped handles.

The Woodworker's Journal review also recommends the 3.5-hp Porter-Cable Speedmatic 7518 (*est. $340) . Owners praise this Porter-Cable wood router in reviews at Amazon.com. It gets top marks for low vibration in the Wood Magazine review, but loses points for lack of dust control. The controls are located better on the Milwaukee fixed-base router, which also has more power. The Porter-Cable warranty is for only one year.

For handheld use, reviews recommend the lighter 1.75-hp (11-amp) Milwaukee 5615-21 (*est. $155) , often called the Milwaukee Body Grip router. Though designed for one-handed use, the Milwaukee can also be gripped around the body with both hands. Popular Mechanics names this model its top choice -- editors say bit-height adjustment when mounted in a table is especially easy, and the motor pops out for bit changes. Shaft and collet nuts are heavy-duty and easy to use. The Journal of Light Construction likes the way the Milwaukee fastens to your hand with a Velcro-type strap, making one-handed routing safer and easier.

The motor, an older model (that some would call a classic) on the Milwaukee 5615-21 Body Grip is not soft-start. Getting that feature requires moving up to the 2.25-hp (13-amp) variable-speed Milwaukee 5616-21 (*est. $190) , which also has the body-grip design. Owners reviewing this "improved" Milwaukee router at Amazon.com give it mixed reviews, with some complaints about problems requiring repairs. One owner notes that the variable speed has an overload cutout that tends to shut down the router a lot, making the single-speed Milwaukee 5615-21 easier to use. It has a longer track record with a much lower percentage of complaints at Amazon.com.

Both professional and owner-written reviews also recommend the 2.25-hp (11-amp) Makita RF1101 (*est. $200) router, but with some reservations about accurate depth adjustments. Editors at Wood Magazine say the quiet-running Makita woodworking router has a conveniently located switch. However, dust collection is optional, base changes require a screwdriver and turning the router on/off requires releasing one handle -- undesirable when routing freehand. Editors at Popular Woodworking agree that the Makita is unusually quiet for a wood router, but like several other reviewers, they note that it's difficult to accurately adjust the depth. The Makita only comes with a one-year warranty, compared with five-years for Milwaukee routers.

Plunge routers - wood working review router

Plunge routers, though a little top-heavy compared with fixed-base routers, are usually considered the safer type, because they keep the sharp cutting bit above the base when you're not actually routing. Plunge routers excel at any type of inside grooving or cutting, either freehand or following a template. It's easier to make several passes to deepen a groove with a plunge router, since you can change the depth with the motor turned on.

Since a plunge router can do the same tasks as a fixed-base router, some expert reviews advise buying a plunge router if you must choose only one, even though they're a bit more complicated to learn to use. Plunge routers have two spring-loaded columns that retract the cutting bit above the base, and then let you plunge the bit down straight into the wood. Most plunge routers now use a soft-start EVS motor to maximize your control. Quick depth adjustments are also important, since you can make them on the fly while the motor's running.

The 10-amp Craftsman 17517 (*est. $140) is the first plunge router to offer a digital display showing the depth setting. We found no comparison reviews that include this new router, but Popular Woodworking tests it in the November 2006 issue, finding that this feature works well only when the wood router is handheld rather than mounted in a router table. The Craftsman wood router also loses points for a dust chute that clogs right away. A Wood Magazine review rates it higher, finding no problem with dust collection, but noting some play that makes repeated cuts gradually lose accuracy. However, owners reviewing the Craftsman 17517 plunge router at Sears.com give it a near-perfect rating, praising the way the digital readout makes it easier to set the depth of cut.

The 10-amp DeWalt DW621 plunge router (*est. $220) , which collects dust through the column, is a favorite at Popular Woodworking and an Editors' Choice in an earlier review at American Woodworking. Owners reviewing it at Amazon.com give it mixed reviews, however, finding it nice for freehand use but inconvenient when mounted in a router table. As a budget choice, Popular Woodworking recommends the Firestorm FS1200RP plunge router (*est. $80), giving it a relatively high rating of 4 (out of a possible 5). The Firestorm wood router also collects dust through the column in a convenient way, but is bulkier and less accurate than the DeWalt router.

In past years, fixed-base rather than plunge routers have been recommended most for use in a router table. However, a plunge router is the top pick for router table use in the most recent Fine Woodworking review. Editors give both the Editors' Choice and Best Value awards to the new 2.25-hp (12-amp) Triton MOF001KC (*est. $200) . A survey of over 9,000 readers of Fine Woodworking and Fine Homebuilding magazines also gives this Triton plunge router top ranking as the best router overall.

Owners reviewing the 2.25-hp Triton plunge router at Amazon.com also give it top marks for its superior dust control, low runout (for accurate cuts) and easy adjustments even when table-mounted. It's also a relative bargain, with templates, edge guide and circle-cutting guide included in the price. Triton wood routers carry a three-year warranty. Overall, the 2.25-hp Triton plunge router is a natural ConsumerSearch Fast Answers choice for general router use. However, router guru Pat Warner warns that mid-sized routers like this aren't powerful enough for more than brief table-mounted use.

If you want to work mainly in a router table, the larger 3.25-hp (15-amp) Triton TRC001 plunge router (*est. $330) has similar features to the Triton MOF001KC, with more power for heavy-duty continuous use or for deep cuts in hardwood. However, instead of coming with two collets (half-inch and quarter-inch), it comes with a half-inch collet plus a quarter-inch adapter. This seems like a minor difference, but a 2006 comparative review in Workbench magazine finds that it does cause some bit slippage -- a major drawback in a wood router.

In this bigger size range, reviews prefer the 15-amp Bosch 1619EVS (*est. $310) , although the Triton gets points for better dust control, easier bit-changing and a longer warranty. The Bosch 1619EVS has a big 3.75-inch base opening for excellent visibility and ease of use with large bits, while the Triton base opening is 3.125 inches, just above the minimum that reviews recommend. Like the Triton wood routers, Bosch routers have variable-speed and soft-start motors with electronic speed control, but the Bosch carries only a one-year warranty. Owners at Amazon.com praise both routers.

As a budget choice for a big "monster" router, reviewers like the Hitachi M12V2 (*est. $210) , which updates the Hitachi M12V by adding dust collection and self-releasing collets. It carries a five-year warranty and has a big 3.5-inch base opening. The Hitachi handles rotate to any of three positions, which for some people could make a significant difference in comfort and control.
This newer Hitachi plunge router hasn't been included in any comparative reviews, but the older Hitachi M12V didn't perform as well as the Bosch 1619EVS in tests at Wood Magazine. Owners reviewing routers at Amazon.com give the Bosch a slightly higher average rating than the Hitachi M12V2. Some Hitachi router owners report quality control problems, with parts arriving defective or broken, or breaking soon after the purchase. The height adjustment knob seems to be an especially vulnerable part.

Reviews recommend the Worx WT600K (*est. $200) plunge router as an alternate budget choice in this size range for router table use. Editors at Workbench Magazine give the Worx router their Top Value award, finding it not only affordable but compact and uncomplicated to use, though tests show "some slop in the plunge." The Worx router uses two ports for dust collection -- one in the base and one in an edge guide included in the kit. Either port connects with a shop vacuum, but Worx includes a dust bag too. Not surprisingly, an in-depth review of the Worx router at American Router magazine finds the dust collection efficient. The Worx WT600K carries a two-year warranty.

Expert reviews note that few people try to use a router of this size as a handheld router, but Wood Magazine editors recommend the DeWalt DW625 (*est. $240) for this purpose. The review notes that mounting the DeWalt wood router in a table makes adjusting the bit height tedious. However, this router gets high marks for smooth plunge action, and an older review at American Woodworker gives it the Editors' Choice award.

Judging by earlier reviews of Festool routers praising their dust control, precision and quality build, we'd have expected the 3.25-hp Festool OF 2000 E router (*est. $430) to do well in comparative tests. However, four different comparison reviews rank other routers a better buy. The Festool plunge routers are designed for handheld use, while the routers discussed above also work well mounted in a router table. Workbench Magazine finds the Festool router's controls and depth adjustment awkward, too. The Festool router doesn't come with a quarter-inch collet, and has only a single-stage depth adjustment, which slows the process.

Types of wood routers

wood working review router Wood routers are categorized by the way the motor is attached to the base:

• Plunge routers attach the motor to a spring-loaded base, so you can plunge the bit safely and accurately into the middle of a piece of work.

• Fixed-base routers lock in the depth of cut by raising or lowering the motor on the base. They're often considered the easiest for beginners to learn to use, especially when mounted in a router table.

• Trim routers (also called laminate trimmers or palm routers) are just extra-small fixed base routers, using bits with quarter-inch shanks, powered by 1-hp or smaller motors.
  



• Combo router kits come with one motor plus both a fixed base and a plunge base.

You can use both types of wood router (plunge and fixed-base) in either of two modes: handheld or mounted upside down in a router table. This is more or less like the difference between using a circular saw and a table saw, or a jigsaw versus a scroll saw. In one mode, you hold the wood steady while moving the tool; in the other, you hold the tool steady while moving the wood.

Expert reviews find that within each type, the best handheld router is usually not the very best choice for use with a router table -- so it's a good idea to think ahead about how you are most likely to use a router. Handheld routers are useful for a variety of tasks -- for example: rounding the edges of wood, making grooves, trimming laminate or cutting mortises for hinges. Table-mounted wood routers are used for precise cuts (as for joinery) and production runs.

Although experts say to take horsepower and even current draw (amp) specifications with a grain of salt, router size is specified in horsepower and type. Trim routers are best for small jobs, with one horsepower or less. Mid-size routers of 1.75 to 2.25 horsepower (or 10 to 13 amps) are best for general use. Router combo kids are usually of this size. Heavy duty routers are meant for continuous use or making deep grooves in hard woods. These are usually 3-hp (15-amp) routers.