Being able to test or return a router is important because quality control seems to be a problem in general. Router expert Pat Spielman says that "…any two routers of the same brand and model may perform quite differently," and user-reviews certainly confirm this. Be sure to check all aspects of your router as soon as you buy it, using a top-quality bit. Don't wait until the last minute to buy a router you need for a project. Give yourself time to check it out and if necessary, keep exchanging routers till you get one that works as it should.
Expert reviews recommend considering the following features when selecting a wood router:
- Consider the accessories you'll need. Some routers make it very easy to buy or make a wide range of accessories (collets, bases, etc.) for different tasks, while owners complain about great difficulty finding any accessories for others.
Be sure you can reach controls without letting go of the handles. A trigger switch in a D-handle is ideal, with a safety switch to prevent accidental turn-ons, plus a lock-on switch to prevent trigger-finger fatigue. For a router you'll also use table-mounted, a second switch mounted on the motor itself is ideal. - Look for power that matches your usage. High-speed, low-torque routers make the smoothest cuts that need the least sanding, but they're not designed for heavy-duty or continuous use. Mid-sized 1.5- to 2.5-hp routers may be able to make deep cuts in hardwoods, but only by straining the motor and shortening the router's life. Larger routers of 3-hp and up are better suited for heavy jobs and production work. For most jobs, though, mid-sized routers have plenty of power, and for small jobs, a lightweight trimmer is apt to be easiest to use.
- The cord should be flexible and kept out of your way. A cord that comes out the back of a D-handle is most convenient; second best is a cord that comes straight out the top of the motor. Check to be sure the rubber insulation doesn't leave dark marks on wood.
Choose handles that give you good control. Most experts like D-handles mounted low, especially with optional auxiliary knobs, but the main thing is to find the handle style that feels most comfortable. It's also nice to be able to use a small or mid-sized router with one hand, but there will be times when you need to control the router with both hands. For use with some accessories, it's nice to have removable handles. - For use in a router table, is it convenient to reach the switch, change bits and adjust the height? Some routers place controls more conveniently than others -- for example, allowing you to adjust height without reaching under the table. However, an auxiliary switch can be mounted on the router table to solve this problem.
- A flat top on the housing makes it easier to set the router upside down for bit changes. Self-releasing collets (which grip the bit) and spindle locks also make it easier, so only one wrench is needed for bit changes (though some woodworkers prefer the two-wrench system).
- adjust the depth easily when the router is mounted in a table -- a long depth-control knob makes this easy.
- Soft-start EVS motors are safer and easier to use. These eliminate the wrist-wrenching jar when the router is first started, which experts say can twist a handheld router right out of your hands. Routers with soft-start motors use EVS (electronic variable speed) technology, with electronic feedback to keep the cutting speed constant even when the load varies.
- Variable speed allows you to run the router at a lower speed when using especially large bits. The speed dial has numbers to indicate the relative speed. It's ideal to be able to read the corresponding rpm from a chart right on the router; second best is a chart in the router's manual.
- Be sure the base is machined precisely, lets you see the work well and has good mounting areas. LED lights are a plus. More important is a base that's truly flat, with the circular edge at the same distance from the bit at all points, so the bit is precisely centered. So many accessories mount to the router's base that it's important to have plenty of sturdy threaded holes.
- Two separate collets are better than one with an adapter. Most mid-sized and larger routers come with both a half-inch collet and a quarter-inch one, but a few just include an adapter for the quarter-inch bits. Expert reviews say this solution isn't as precise or secure. Some small routers only take quarter-inch collets.
- Guide bushings are essential accessories. These are metal sleeves that lock into the base of a router for cutting with a pattern or using various jigs. It's an advantage to choose a router that accepts industry-standard Porter-Cable bushings or at least offers an adapter that makes this possible. However, the Bosch system makes changing guides faster.
- Look for a large hole in the base to accommodate medium to large bits. Expert reviews prefer a 4-inch hole (except on trim routers), with 3 inches as the minimum. If this is the only problem with a router you like otherwise, several reviews recommend making your own base out of clear Lexan, with whatever size hole you need. For some projects, especially on the edge of a workpiece, a base with a large hole may not leave enough support.
- Look for high quality self-releasing collets made of tempered steel. Longer collets with more slits will grip the bit better and keep it centered even if its shank isn't precisely machined. (If the router vibrates excessively, this is often a sign of a worn or poor-quality collet or bit.)
- Two-stage depth adjustment makes fine adjustments easier. This means that a fast coarse adjustment is supplemented by a micro-adjustment. Look for an easy-to-read scale. The best routers have scales you can "zero out," setting the scale to zero when the bit's point touches the surface of the workpiece. Be sure you can also
You seem to know a fair bit about router tool accessories. Do share your experiences about power tools when you have the time
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