routing table fixes your plunge or fixed base router underneath a table. Instead of moving the router over the workpiece, you move the wood "over" the router. The wood is guided along the table by a guide fence. At the opening of the guide fence the wood is cut and the dust and chips are extracted by a opening at the back of the guide fence. The router can still be moved vertically within the table in order to adapt depth of cut.
Important parts
Key parts are the table top quality, fence, positioning of router within the table, stability of the table and safety switch.
Router table quality: A good table should be flat and resistant to friction. Most manufacturer use extruded aluminum or cast aluminum. Others use MDF surfaced with melamine
Router table fence
Movable from back to front, the router table fence guides you along the cut. The guide fence supporting system should be connected to your vac to keep the working area dust free. On top of the guide fence support are usually two boards mounted. The gap between the two boards leaves enough room for the router bit to move freely, but should be as close as possible to prevent splintering. Some suppliers offer special insert pieces to keep the gap between the two fence boards closed. On shop made tables you can simply add a large splinter board along the entire fence and cut it out with your cutter.
Adjustment and positioning of the router:
Whatever router you use (fixed base or plunge) your router must be fit solid underneath the table. Most manufacturer offer special adaptors for most routers available. If you go for a shop made table, make sure the base of your router is attached securely. In addition it is very important that your router can be accessed easily from underneath or top of the table to quickly change your router bit.
Fine adjustment: Height adjustment of you router is also a key factor to usability. Owning an old Elu (now De Walt) plunge router, I got myself a nice depth fine adjustment which works very well underneath my table. So if your router does not already have one, check with your router manufacturer.
Stability: It sounds logical to look for a stable table design. However most cheap designs are not very solid and might need additional fixation. If you think about making your own table, you should consider including a "cabinet type" stand.
Important parts
Key parts are the table top quality, fence, positioning of router within the table, stability of the table and safety switch.
Router table quality: A good table should be flat and resistant to friction. Most manufacturer use extruded aluminum or cast aluminum. Others use MDF surfaced with melamine
Router table fence
Movable from back to front, the router table fence guides you along the cut. The guide fence supporting system should be connected to your vac to keep the working area dust free. On top of the guide fence support are usually two boards mounted. The gap between the two boards leaves enough room for the router bit to move freely, but should be as close as possible to prevent splintering. Some suppliers offer special insert pieces to keep the gap between the two fence boards closed. On shop made tables you can simply add a large splinter board along the entire fence and cut it out with your cutter.
Adjustment and positioning of the router:
Whatever router you use (fixed base or plunge) your router must be fit solid underneath the table. Most manufacturer offer special adaptors for most routers available. If you go for a shop made table, make sure the base of your router is attached securely. In addition it is very important that your router can be accessed easily from underneath or top of the table to quickly change your router bit.
Fine adjustment: Height adjustment of you router is also a key factor to usability. Owning an old Elu (now De Walt) plunge router, I got myself a nice depth fine adjustment which works very well underneath my table. So if your router does not already have one, check with your router manufacturer.
Stability: It sounds logical to look for a stable table design. However most cheap designs are not very solid and might need additional fixation. If you think about making your own table, you should consider including a "cabinet type" stand.
Router table switch: Building your own router table make sure you think about an extra switch. A good router table switch fulfills 2 major needs: 
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