Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Using woodworking router videos to determine your needs

Looking at lists of projects is not always the easiest way to figure out what kind of woodworking router you need, especially if you have little or no experience with woodworking routers. Fortunately there are many great woodworking router videos that can show you exactly how to use your free hand plunge woodworking router or woodworking router table.
These shows are often aired on public television, sponsored by tool manufacturers. By looking at a few of these woodworking router videos you can determine what sorts of projects interest you, and you can then shop for a woodworking router that can help you with these projects.

Using woodworking router reviews to buy the best router

Once you have settled on a type of woodworking router, it is best to consult several woodworking router reviews before making a purchase. These woodworking router reviews can be found on many different web sites, and will allow you to read testimonials from other woodworkers who have used each router.
By reading a few woodworking router reviews you will be able to see whether each router lives up to the promises made by its manufacturer. When you are reading reviews you should be looking for several different factors, including:
Price: does the woodworking router give the most "bang for the buck" with flexible features?
Durability: how do the woodworking routers stand up to heavy use?
Versatility: can the woodworking router be used in a number of different projects, or be combined with accessories to make a table woodworking router?

Rating woodworking routers

Once you have read a few woodworking router reviews, you should be able to rank each woodworking router based on which will offer the most features and best power for your projects. Then it is a simple matter of heading to the store to pick up your new woodworking router.

Using woodworking router videos to determine your needs

Looking at lists of projects is not always the easiest way to figure out what kind of woodworking router you need, especially if you have little or no experience with woodworking routers. Fortunately there are many great woodworking router videos that can show you exactly how to use your free hand plunge woodworking router or woodworking router table.

These shows are often aired on public television, sponsored by tool manufacturers. By looking at a few of these woodworking router videos you can determine what sorts of projects interest you, and you can then shop for a woodworking router that can help you with these projects.


Using woodworking router reviews to buy the best router
Once you have settled on a type of woodworking router, it is best to consult several woodworking router reviews before making a purchase. These woodworking router reviews can be found on many different web sites, and will allow you to read testimonials from other woodworkers who have used each router.
By reading a few woodworking router reviews you will be able to see whether each router lives up to the promises made by its manufacturer. When you are reading reviews you should be looking for several different factors, including:
Price: does the woodworking router give the most "bang for the buck" with flexible features?
Durability: how do the woodworking routers stand up to heavy use?
Versatility: can the woodworking router be used in a number of different projects, or be combined with accessories to make a table woodworking router?


Rating woodworking routers
Once you have read a few woodworking router reviews, you should be able to rank each woodworking router based on which will offer the most features and best power for your projects. Then it is a simple matter of heading to the store to pick up your new woodworking router.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Before Investing in a CNC Router

YOU NEED TO KNOW THE ADVANTAGES OF:
  • Servo Motors over Steppers
  • Ball Screws over Acme Screws and/or Rack-and-Pinions
  • Rigid Machine Frames over Table Top Routers
  • A Windows-Based CNC GCODE Interface

Servo Motors over Steppers

All Techno machines, except for the Stepper DaVinci, feature servo motors, not stepper motors. With servo motors, you can achieve greater power and speed. Our competitors play a numbers game of specifications we do not. We actually can achieve specifications better than what we claim. When we claim speeds of 200 inches/minute, we can usually go 250 ipm. When we claim a repeatability of .0005 inches, we can and do achieve repeatability better than that, and so on. The speeds claimed by some of our competitors on their machines can only be achieved if they throw the machine off a cliff. Stepper motors are always prone to vibration and can result in a loss of steps. Even micro-stepping is not a guarantee of eliminating this. When a motor is run open loop, the resulting vibrations from a heavy cut can cause all sorts of problems and without the encoders to tell where the motor actually is, you can always have problems

Ball Screws over Acme Screws and/or Rack-and-Pinions

Techno only use ball screws and anti-backlash ball nuts on ALL OUR MACHINES. Acme screws are very inefficient and combined with stepper motors can compound the problems. Rack and Pinions can be an endless source of problems. When chips or dirt falls on the rack, the pinion gear has to go “over it” resulting in loss of positioning accuracy and vibration. The racks constantly need adjusting to tighten them and after tightening them in one spot, you are more than likely to be too loose or too tight on another area of the rack. This of course causes the system to be either too loose or to bind. This does not happen with a ball screw because the balls roll over a formed thread. Since they roll, we can tighten up the fit between the screw and ball nut without causing the system to bind. Racks and acme screws wear because of the nature of their action they have to rub and they have to have a certain amount of looseness to achieve their motion. In both the rack and Acme screw, the sliding action causes the wear, which requires the adjustments. The rolling action of the ball screw means that the motion of the system is first of all more efficient so that the motor power is used to move the system, not just used to overcome the sliding friction of the mechanism, but second it does not wear as much or as fast. Putting it simply, rubbing wears material out, rolling does not. This means that our customers spend their time running the machine, not adjusting it.

Rigid Machine Frames over Table Top Routers

Techno machines, especially our larger CNC machines, are built on rigid steel frames, not bolted assemblies or sheet metal covered aluminum assemblies. This results in stiffer frames which means that when you take heavy cuts, our machine will not rack or twist. Our CNC lathes are designed with covered mechanisms to prevent chips from getting where they should not. Our CNC wood lathe has the entire moving mechanisms covered in sealed slides and the seals are on the bottom of the mechanism so that the wood chips have an even more difficult time of getting in the machine


Windows-Based CNC GCODE Interface

Techno's WINDOWS-BASED CNC GCODE Interface is extremely user-friendly with most major functions just one-click away. Even users that are unfamiliar with computers can get up and running in no time. Techno provides easy to follow Interface Tutorials that walk you through the processes. It's simple to install on any Windows-Based PC (WIN 95 / 98 / 2000/ME/XP) so you don't have to worry about compatibility. The Interface's Main Menu (shown at right) highlights Techno's single-screen design. Some of the features that one-click will take you to, include:ท Toolpath Previewerท Built-in GCODE Editorท Production Logging and Reportingท Toolbreak Auto-Repositioningท Infinite Look-Ahead and Continuous Motion (optimizing feedrates while maintaining accurate positioning)AND, all of Techno's complete system machines (LC, RG, Prem Class, etc.) get this software bundled with the machine, FOR FREE. AND, you get FREE lifetime updates on this software, via the Internet.


Servo-Stepper Motor Table

Custom Woodworking with a Thermwood CNC Router


Custom woodworking consists of building products, either one at a time or in limited quantity. Traditionally this work has been done by hand and only recently has technology developed which makes a CNC router a practical and powerful tool for custom woodworkers. Thermwood is at the forefront in developing this new technology and is the only source for much of it.


Traditionally CNC routers have been used to produce a large quantity of identical parts. Thus, the often complex and expensive programming task could be spread over a large quantity of parts. The key to using a CNC router for custom woodworking is to simplify or eliminate programming so that it becomes practical to create a program for a single part.

The first development to address this was the development of cabinet design and kitchen layout software using the concept of parametric parts. Design software, such as CAD, is used to design individual parts. This is still not practical for designing and programming cabinets. A single cabinet can consist of dozens of parts, each of which must be individually designed including their interface with all the other parts. The programming task is just too great for any benefit that might be realized.

The new type of cabinet design software changes this by taking a different approach. Instead of designing each part, this software lets you design the cabinet itself. When the cabinet and all the joints and the size have been defined, the software then designs all the individual parts so they will fit together and make the cabinet you want. It is much easier to define the cabinet than it is to define each part of the cabinet.

This is where parametrics comes in. Parametric dimensions are dimensions that change in proportion when another dimension changes. If all you want to do is change the size of the cabinet, there is no reason to redefine all the parameters. You simply tell the software that you want the same cabinet in a new size and it changes all the part sizes as needed. Now it becomes practical to make custom size cabinets, since virtually all the programming work is done by the software. The practice of designing custom cabinets this way and then cutting them out on a CNC router has become known as Nested Based Manufacturing. Another area of this web site covers this in more detail.

Most CNC controls only accept programs carefully developed for them. The basic part design must be processed through CAM software which develops the path that the tool must take to produce the part. Then, the tool path must be processed through another piece of software called a Post Processor which develops the CNC code needed to make the machine travel the required path. This adds complexity to the process making it less suitable for short run and custom jobs.

Thermwood eliminates this complexity by including the CAM and Post Processor functions in the control itself, and they are automatic. All you need to do it copy the part design to the control and it does everything needed to run it, automatically.

We use the DXF format, which virtually every major software package exports, to transfer design detail to the control.

There is one area to watch for when looking at software. Some cabinet design software companies that offer separate, high cost CNC links, have removed the DXF output from their base package and placed it in their CNC link to force you to purchase this even though you will not be using their CAM and Post Processor software. Most design software, however, retains the DXF file export functions and work directly with Thermwood’s control.

In an effort to help custom shops find work for their machines, Thermwood, through the eCabinet Systems web site, maintains an area where Thermwood machine owners can post their name and contact information. Those looking for shops to custom make parts can then call and make arrangements directly. There is no cost for this service.


Another new area that can prove to be a huge benefit to custom shops concerns custom profiles for moldings or part edges. Traditionally, to machine a custom molding or a custom shape on a part, a custom shaped tool was needed. These custom tools have the same disadvantage as custom programming when only a few parts are required. The disadvantage is that the entire cost must be charged against one or two parts. Using eCabinet Systems software and the Thermwood control, an alternative approach is now available.

When a part with a custom shape is sent to the control, the control asks if you have a tool with the correct profile. If you say no, the control automatically creates a modeling program that uses standard tools to produce the shape. It does this by going back and forth with the tool, stepping over a little each time until the desired profile is developed.

This does take longer (about 15 minutes for an 8’ molding) but it is a highly efficient alternative to buying a new tool every time you need to make a new shape. Shapes can be put on straight or curved pieces including curved moldings and curved edges of parts. This capability gives the custom shop the ability to quickly produce virtually any shape without special tooling, opening new opportunities not available with other CNC routers.

Another approach available from Thermwood but not available from others is the ability to rent CNC programs for elaborate carvings which are used to produce custom designs. There is a small rental fee for each part produced using this program.

Thermwood offers a growing library of programs for carvings and carved parts. When you want to run the program, you purchase, through the control, a license. Cost per part is typically a few dollars.

You are normally charged for the license after program execution is a little over half over. If the program is stopped before this point because of defects uncovered in the material for example, it can be restarted without paying the license fee again. Once this point is passed, you need to pay the license fee again to restart the program. Note that you can stop the program at any time to replace a cutting tool, back up to the point where it broke and resume without purchasing another license fee.

This program offers the ability to add elaborate details without the time and expense normally required to develop custom programs. You can even scale the carving size up or down in each axis to better adapt it to your custom requirements. Thermwood will continue to add new programs and invites artists and wood carvers to submit designs of their own for the program. Should a design be submitted and accepted, Thermwood will split any design fees collected for use of that design with the person that submitted it.


Saturday, August 23, 2008

wood working router table






routing table fixes your plunge or fixed base router underneath a table. Instead of moving the router over the workpiece, you move the wood "over" the router. The wood is guided along the table by a guide fence. At the opening of the guide fence the wood is cut and the dust and chips are extracted by a opening at the back of the guide fence. The router can still be moved vertically within the table in order to adapt depth of cut.

Important parts
Key parts are the table top quality, fence, positioning of router within the table, stability of the table and safety switch.

Router table quality: A good table should be flat and resistant to friction. Most manufacturer use extruded aluminum or cast aluminum. Others use MDF surfaced with melamine
Router table fence

Movable from back to front, the router table fence guides you along the cut. The guide fence supporting system should be connected to your vac to keep the working area dust free. On top of the guide fence support are usually two boards mounted. The gap between the two boards leaves enough room for the router bit to move freely, but should be as close as possible to prevent splintering. Some suppliers offer special insert pieces to keep the gap between the two fence boards closed. On shop made tables you can simply add a large splinter board along the entire fence and cut it out with your cutter.

Adjustment and positioning of the router:

Whatever router you use (fixed base or plunge) your router must be fit solid underneath the table. Most manufacturer offer special adaptors for most routers available. If you go for a shop made table, make sure the base of your router is attached securely. In addition it is very important that your router can be accessed easily from underneath or top of the table to quickly change your router bit.

Fine adjustment: Height adjustment of you router is also a key factor to usability. Owning an old Elu (now De Walt) plunge router, I got myself a nice depth fine adjustment which works very well underneath my table. So if your router does not already have one, check with your router manufacturer.

Stability: It sounds logical to look for a stable table design. However most cheap designs are not very solid and might need additional fixation. If you think about making your own table, you should consider including a "cabinet type" stand.


Router table switch: Building your own router table make sure you think about an extra switch. A good router table switch fulfills 2 major needs:

wood working router bit


If you're in the market for a new router, check out how many wood working router bits come with it. A lot of the time the cheaper models will include a wide range of wood working router bits, but it may not be such a great deal if the router isn't going to last long.

A good quality router is essential for anyone working with wood, but there are a mind-boggling number of wood working router bits available in the market. No matter what you're designing or building, there's a router bit for the job.

For instance, just for cabinet making there are about eight different styles of bits and another eight for glue joints. And if you are profiling wood you can choose from two dozen different wood working router bits. From double round, ogee fillet, plunge ogee and specialty molding bits to wavy edge and classic cove bits to name just a few.


Fixed or Plunge Router Bits

There are two types of routers, the fixed, is used on most surfacing and joints, and the plunge, which is more applicable to making internal cuts. More control is required as the bit can be plunged into the wood to start a design and this type of control isn't available on a fixed router.

There are wood working router bits for plunge routers as well, such as the plunge roundover, plunge handgrip and the plunge ogee, to name just a few. It's important to remember that not all fixed router bits can be used as a plunge wood working router bit as it won't have the tail piece to be able to start the cut.

The ease of use of wood working router bit sets can help with your projects if you obtain the proper set. There are pre-assembled sets for raised panel work, cabinet making, form bit sets and basic bit sets. For most beginners a basic set is the best bet.

Carbide-tipped wood working router bits are special long-lasting bits which will stay sharp longer. Cheaper wood working router bits are available but like with any wood working tools and accessories, you get what you pay for. Sharpening a bit takes special care and expertise and to trying to renew the cutting edge on a cheap bit may not be worth the effort. So the need to replace the bit in most cases does justify buying the better quality bit upfront.

Important Features: wood working review router

Reviews can compare woodworking routers based on important factors, but it's still important to see how a router feels in your own hands. If at all possible, test drive a router before buying it, or make sure the retailer offers a full refund on returns.

Being able to test or return a router is important because quality control seems to be a problem in general. Router expert Pat Spielman says that "…any two routers of the same brand and model may perform quite differently," and user-reviews certainly confirm this. Be sure to check all aspects of your router as soon as you buy it, using a top-quality bit. Don't wait until the last minute to buy a router you need for a project. Give yourself time to check it out and if necessary, keep exchanging routers till you get one that works as it should.

Expert reviews recommend considering the following features when selecting a wood router:



  • Consider the accessories you'll need. Some routers make it very easy to buy or make a wide range of accessories (collets, bases, etc.) for different tasks, while owners complain about great difficulty finding any accessories for others.
    Be sure you can reach controls without letting go of the handles. A trigger switch in a D-handle is ideal, with a safety switch to prevent accidental turn-ons, plus a lock-on switch to prevent trigger-finger fatigue. For a router you'll also use table-mounted, a second switch mounted on the motor itself is ideal.


  • Look for power that matches your usage. High-speed, low-torque routers make the smoothest cuts that need the least sanding, but they're not designed for heavy-duty or continuous use. Mid-sized 1.5- to 2.5-hp routers may be able to make deep cuts in hardwoods, but only by straining the motor and shortening the router's life. Larger routers of 3-hp and up are better suited for heavy jobs and production work. For most jobs, though, mid-sized routers have plenty of power, and for small jobs, a lightweight trimmer is apt to be easiest to use.


  • The cord should be flexible and kept out of your way. A cord that comes out the back of a D-handle is most convenient; second best is a cord that comes straight out the top of the motor. Check to be sure the rubber insulation doesn't leave dark marks on wood.
    Choose handles that give you good control. Most experts like D-handles mounted low, especially with optional auxiliary knobs, but the main thing is to find the handle style that feels most comfortable. It's also nice to be able to use a small or mid-sized router with one hand, but there will be times when you need to control the router with both hands. For use with some accessories, it's nice to have removable handles.


  • For use in a router table, is it convenient to reach the switch, change bits and adjust the height? Some routers place controls more conveniently than others -- for example, allowing you to adjust height without reaching under the table. However, an auxiliary switch can be mounted on the router table to solve this problem.


  • A flat top on the housing makes it easier to set the router upside down for bit changes. Self-releasing collets (which grip the bit) and spindle locks also make it easier, so only one wrench is needed for bit changes (though some woodworkers prefer the two-wrench system).


  • adjust the depth easily when the router is mounted in a table -- a long depth-control knob makes this easy.


  • Soft-start EVS motors are safer and easier to use. These eliminate the wrist-wrenching jar when the router is first started, which experts say can twist a handheld router right out of your hands. Routers with soft-start motors use EVS (electronic variable speed) technology, with electronic feedback to keep the cutting speed constant even when the load varies.


  • Variable speed allows you to run the router at a lower speed when using especially large bits. The speed dial has numbers to indicate the relative speed. It's ideal to be able to read the corresponding rpm from a chart right on the router; second best is a chart in the router's manual.


  • Be sure the base is machined precisely, lets you see the work well and has good mounting areas. LED lights are a plus. More important is a base that's truly flat, with the circular edge at the same distance from the bit at all points, so the bit is precisely centered. So many accessories mount to the router's base that it's important to have plenty of sturdy threaded holes.


  • Two separate collets are better than one with an adapter. Most mid-sized and larger routers come with both a half-inch collet and a quarter-inch one, but a few just include an adapter for the quarter-inch bits. Expert reviews say this solution isn't as precise or secure. Some small routers only take quarter-inch collets.


  • Guide bushings are essential accessories. These are metal sleeves that lock into the base of a router for cutting with a pattern or using various jigs. It's an advantage to choose a router that accepts industry-standard Porter-Cable bushings or at least offers an adapter that makes this possible. However, the Bosch system makes changing guides faster.


  • Look for a large hole in the base to accommodate medium to large bits. Expert reviews prefer a 4-inch hole (except on trim routers), with 3 inches as the minimum. If this is the only problem with a router you like otherwise, several reviews recommend making your own base out of clear Lexan, with whatever size hole you need. For some projects, especially on the edge of a workpiece, a base with a large hole may not leave enough support.


  • Look for high quality self-releasing collets made of tempered steel. Longer collets with more slits will grip the bit better and keep it centered even if its shank isn't precisely machined. (If the router vibrates excessively, this is often a sign of a worn or poor-quality collet or bit.)


  • Two-stage depth adjustment makes fine adjustments easier. This means that a fast coarse adjustment is supplemented by a micro-adjustment. Look for an easy-to-read scale. The best routers have scales you can "zero out," setting the scale to zero when the bit's point touches the surface of the workpiece. Be sure you can also